Lynn Schirmer

It has long been my dream to go to the Uffizi Gallery, ever since those days in Art History 102 (or was it 101?). I thought I would be in ecstasy, and indeed my tour inside of Gardner’s continues, though it’s hardly been chronological. The Uffizi does its best to keep time straight. The 2D exhibits do follow the birth of the Renaissance, its flowering, and then its briefly overrunning the garden into other movements in later centuries towards the end.

Get this: I saw Giotto, Filippino Lippi, Botticelli, Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael, Bronzino, Pontormo, Rubens, Rembrandt and those are just the household names (they are household names, right?)

Two things stood out. I did not expect to be bowled over by the transition- into-Renaissance gold leafed alter pieces. Another example of how reproductions in art books do no justice, they were stunning. I found them more beautiful than several of their successors which are thought to be superior. The other was Botticelli. Again, I did not see the delicate line and subtlety of rendering, and overall flow that is apparent in real life. Spring and Birth of Venus required extra sitting and staring time. They were breathtaking.

As for standing in front of the Doni Madonna, well what can I say? It was another one of those pinch-me moments. A kid in a tour asked his teacher why Michelangelo painted Madonna with short hair and muscles. I said perhaps because he was gay? Teach commented that bare arms weren’t allowed for centuries (really?), so Mich. broke all kinds of rules.

The Museo does not allow any photography. I played dumb and took shots until I got caught. Here’s what I got:

This dome was donned with shells, that’s right, sea shells.

Looking out the window to the west, you’re allowed to photo out the windows, just not the art. Ok, I got more photos, but these were the most interesting.

This was my favorite and right after I caught it a guard yelled “No photo, no photo!” That is one thing about Christian art is that there are torture scenes everywhere. This poor guy was hanging under a portrait of one of the Medicis. Eh, humans.

How about a Baptism, or some Paradise?
So I collect myself and begin to wander about. First it’s down to the Piazza Della Signoria where tourists of all kinds are separated first from their money and then their pride. Plus, everything in Florence is decorated by scaffolding and has a crane attached to it. Nice that they want to maintain the monuments, not so nice it’s happening at every single one at this moment. I’m a little irritated, and some of my criticisms might not be fair, but hey, there is one thing, could you people please fix the sewer problem? It almost constantly smells like a waste treatment plant in this town.

One thing I’ve grown to appreciate about Seattle: the scoop law! Poop here could kill. The sidewalks sometimes are no bigger than 18 inches, one step to avoid a pile can put you right in the path of an oncoming scooter. It just ain’t right.

The Piazza:

Then after a very bad experience, no being ripped off by a gelato vender, I just wandered. I was very mad, but then, hey, I found Paradise.

The originals are housed in a Museo and not exposed to the elements, thank (heaven?), but these repros are somewhat lacking.

Look inside though, it’s the Baptistry, a building I’ve wanted to see since I learned of its existence.

To sit in a structure that is almost a thousand years old is awe inspiring. On my way out I spotted a bright red fire extinguisher. I wondered just what might burn, the entire structure is made of stone or marble. I guess the pews could catch fire? It just struck me as funny. Perhaps they’re still expecting the devil.